Visit CV Performance for Harley NGK, Champion, and Autolite spark plugs. Iridium plugs should only be used with electronic ignitions. All sparkplugs listed meet or exceed manufacturer specifications. In addition it is often more convenient to use aftermarket spark plugs aside from the enhanced performance. Decreased Carbon Deposits Thermal edge and spark support. NGK and Autolite among others have always been a preferred performance plug for Harley motorcycles. Improper combustion condition and wrong heat range selection may cause damage to the spark plug. While the motor company only recommends use of their original equipment Harley brand spark plugs, the other brands often exceed original specification and will not void your warranty. So now I'm confused again.Below is a cross-reference list of spark plugs for use in most Harley models. My direct experience with the W27 was that it ran clean, whereas the BR8 has light soot. Of course I'm not planning to explore heat ranges beyond the small changes that have been talked about in the past, and if the NGK 9 IS equivalent to the DENSO W27 that I have already run, and recommended by Claus, then I am not really experimenting at all.īevan's comments and those in the thread he linked seem consistent with what is written on the NGK website, but disagrees with the DENSO cross reference chart, which shows BR9 = W27. On the other hand, the NGK BR8 shows virtually no electrode wear over the same interval, but runs with a slight soot deposit. Please note that the numbers don’t indicate degrees they’re product codes to give an indication of the heat range. Not excessive, but probably open 0.005-0.007 in 50 hours. Take a look at the chart for the range of Champion offerings. The other indication is that the DENSO W27, while running clean and tan/grey, also shows some electrode wear. Its a cool idea, I've just never noticed it before. Those plugs are effectively my "control" showing that nothing else has changed.īut thanks, I didn't know about the heat range tab.I'll clean a plug and take a look. The standard aircraft plugs on the bottom, fired by a mag, look exactly the same as they have for the last 300+ hours. Nothing else in the engine has changed except the heat range of the auto plugs on top. While it is true that soot on the spark plug is not necessarily caused by the heat range, in this case it is. Found it - p/n 3194 (BR9ES solid) at Advanced Auto parts, same price as the p/n 3961 (BR8ES Solid) Next is the trick to figure out the right part number to get the solid tip instead of the loose tip. I think the confusion is between the nomenclature of 'hotter plug' vs 'higher heat range' plug which I think actually needs to be a colder plug-carries heat away faster for operating at higher temps.Īnyway, the W27's worked well, so I think I want to buy the BR9ES. However, the cross reference chart for heat range on the DENSO chart shows that NGK BR9 is equivalent to DENSO W27. A look at the NGK website says that lower numbers are hotter plugs, suggesting that I should go to a BR7. On most engines making between 300 and up to the 500 HP or more area on small blocks and 600 HP or so area on big blocks, the heat range on the plugs should. So, it looks like I need a slightly hotter plug. But now, the plugs are black with just a very light dusting of soot. The heat range of those looked just about right, the plugs were always pale tan/grey color.įor more availability, I wanted to switch to NGK, and I bought BR8ES plugs that several mentions on the forum seem to be the right ones. For several years, I ran the DENSO W27EMR-C plugs that Claus sells with my Light Speed ignition.
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